Japanese Standard Chisels
Japanese High Speed Steel Chisels
MATSUMURA White Paper Steel Chisels
KUNIKEI White Paper Steel Chisels
TWO CHERRIES Chisels
VERITAS Bench Chisels
VERITAS Butt Chisels
Japanese Dovetail Chisels (Umeki Nomi)
Japanese Firmer Chisels (Atsu Nomi, Damekiri, Tataki Nomi)
Japanese Mortise Chisels (Mukoumachi Nomi)
Japanese Paring Chisels (Usu Nomi, Kinari Nomi)
Japanese Fishtail Chisels (Bachi Nomi)
Scabbard Chisel (Saya Nomi)
Firmer Chisels, Mortise Chisels, Timber Frame Chisels
Chisels for Stairmakers - can be used for heavy Woodcarving too
Corner Cutting Chisels, Paring Chisels, Swan Neck Chisels, Cranked Chisels, Butt Chisels, Shoji Chisels
Slicks "Sashi Nomi"
TWO CHERRIES Firmer Gouges, Inside Cannel Firmer Gouges
MHG Firmer Gouges, Framing Gouges
Tool Roll for Chisels
Mallets to strike Chisels
Size Comparison of different Chisel Types
A good chisel can only show how good it is if it is used for the purpose it was intended for. The building site is the wrong place for an expensive chisel, for there the wood will be spattered with concrete and the danger of theft will be high. The other side of the coin is that delicate work should be done with fine tools.
And fine work can only be achieved if the chisel is sharp. Do not use dry grinding wheels, because they cause the steel to soften and the cutting edge will last hardly any time at all. There are plenty of manufacturers who promote their chisels with the slogan, "Sharpened ready for use - unpack me and use me!" Take no notice! You should flatten the back of the chisel to absolute flatness. If you have not done so, you cannot expect to finish it properly after sharpening the cutting edge. Then sharpen the bevel, and finally hone both the bevel and the flat face. Do not be afraid of using a sharpening guide. There is nothing harder than resharpening or re-grinding a bevel you are simply holding in your hand.
Another point - maybe you have heard the story of the ancient chisel rediscovered in a corner of the attic. It still worked, and sharpened up brilliantly, to an edge that lasted for ages. It rapidly became the tool of preference for every job. And what happened? Not a miracle, unless you count the properties of carbon steel, for that was what it was made of: carbon steel is excellent to sharpen and has high hardness. In the 19th century, virtually every cutting tool was made of carbon steel. The name is given to steel unalloyed with any other substance. It is allowed to contain up to 1.7 % carbon. It has some disadvantages - it is brittle and can be denatured if heated. And it is not stainless.
Many of today's manufacturers avoid these disadvantages by using steel alloys. Adding chromium and nickel, for instance, makes the steel stainless, adding tungsten and molybdenum makes it resistant to heat, and titanium toughens it. Foundries will mix the additives to obtain the best combination for the product.
However, these advantages in turn bring disadvantages. The tools are less easy to sharpen, grindstones get clogged, and frequently the cutting edge gets blunt sooner.
As the disadvantages of carbon steel for handheld cutting tools are more than outweighed by its advantages, we declare a preference in the case of chisels for tool steels with a high carbon content.
Japanese chisels are made of plain high-carbon steel. Two Cherries and MHG chisels are made of alloyed steel.